ELIE

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Elie sounds like a nice enough girl’s name, but in the frontier town of Sen Monorom, Mondulkiri, ELIE means elephants.

To be precise, it means Elephants Livelihood Initiative Environment, which is a bit of a mouthful so to acronym it makes all the sense.

I had the opportunity to travel to Mondulkiri in March which seemed like the perfect time of year to be heading that way; towards the end of the dry season with rains still far enough away, the rolling green hills and pockets of pristine emerald jungle lined the way. My eyes, accustomed to the life on a pancake, welcomed the change of scenery gratefully. It’s not all roses though, not at all actually, as I observed cassava and rubber tree plantations pushing the jungle into extinction.

Jungle clearing...

Traffic jam Mondulkiri style

After a day’s travel by road from Siem Reap, reaching Sen Monorom was a relief and first Cambodia beer went down like a treat. So did all the others actually, I blame elevation and cooler climate. The food in Nature Lodge where I was lodged was amazing and by far the best in town – as discovered over the period of four nights.

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I had arranged a date with Jack Highwood for the next day.

About 30 minutes outside Sen Monorom, “Heaven” stretches 650 hectares across pristine jungle, hills and valleys and the sight in the shimmering morning sun just takes your breath away. The jungle screams with life, moisture is rising in misty threads amongst the giant trees and vines and I am pinching myself hardly believing this is Cambodia, so very different from the parched plains and dry harvested rice fields of Siem Reap in the midst of the dry season.

Jack and his team rent this piece of Heaven from the local tribes and minorities. They take care of 12 elephants in total, leathery ear flopping giants rescued from tourism, agriculture and logging industries. Free and able to be just elephants again,

it’s a great experience and  a sustainable alternative to what comes into the minds of many when Cambodia is mentioned: elephant riding and trekking. This project also provides jobs for around 40 workers who share passion of protecting their natural forest and jungle.

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Morning bathing routine

The "haven" valley

Couple of friendly, trunked up ladies

A reasonable level of fitness is required as you descent into the valley and make your way through dark jungle growth to a clearing where river carves its way through rocks, over fallen trees and gathers in a deeper pool in the far corner. A perfect elephant bathtub! A day’s visit allows you to walk with the elephants, observe them in their natural habitat and you may even participate in their washing splashing routine. Bob, the only male in the ELIE herd, is a bit grumpy (like all males I suppose), so you are advised to keep your distance but the ladies are nice, friendly and accustomed to humans. If you happen to bring bananas, they will certainly find you and demand their treat.  One of the staff who accompanies the group – of however many people turn up on that day – will share all elephant related stories, secrets and common misconceptions with you and answer all questions you may have. Some of the answers may surprise you and instantly change your views on elephant trekking and working.

One of the mahouts

On the way to the project

Jack on the right

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On the way - mid stride

Jack’s passion shines directly out at you from his intense blue eyes. His views are firm and uncompromising, yet ring true and I found it refreshing that somebody actually cares for the welfare of animals in Cambodia (Jack’s history with elephants goes way back and reaches across many countries) and puts up everyday battle for this worthy cause.

By mid-day we were just about finished with our jungle adventures and back up the hill we headed across another valley to the project’s home. Here volunteers can stay and lend a helping hand for as little or as long as they like, community spirit prevails and the atmosphere is laid back. The views are stunning – rolling hills and not a sign of civilization as we know it in sight, screeching jungle on your doorstep and the food just amazing.

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It's all happening in Sen Monorom

Visitng Sen Monorom certainly put things into perspective. Not only did I love the ELIE project and what is stands for but I could sample the atmosphere of the real Cambodia where time stood still – or so it seems. A place, where expats are forced out of their comfort zones and learn to speak Khmer with a surprising ease and in no time at all. A place where expat community counts roughly 20 souls gathered from different corners of the globe and from different walks of life. A place where quick catch up over a beer on Friday is over by the time the clock reads 9 and then it’s all over again. A simple life in the forgotten corner of Cambodia. Worth visiting while this lasts.

A word of warning to the faint hearted – luxury is a word of empty meaning there and tourist facilities are best described as basic.